We often start our days early on this pilgrimage, and today was no exception. The call to prayer from the minaret began sometime around 5. It was followed by the Ave Maria on the bells; one assumes from the Church of the Annunciation. A cheery wakeup call at 6:15 in order to lineup luggage for the bus at 6:45 and eat breakfast. I don't hate the early calls and with all the attention to prayer around us, it helps me focus on the day ahead.
After gathering on the bus, we check to see that our buddy is there. Its an important part of the bus routine - no one gets left behind - at least not yet. We begin the drive and it is shortly followed with a prayer. I have come to love this part of the bus ride, where we focus in on what is ahead. Iyad, our guide, then gives us a run down of the day: a church in Burqin, a church in Nablus, a sweet treat, and the ruins of a church in Taybeh, followed by a brewery tour, and lunch and then a little store of local crafts right around the corner from us in Jerusalem. In and out of the bus sometimes seems exhausting, but honestly it is worth it. Iyad jokes, "if you don't like it, guess what? no choice." We all laugh, we've become comfortable with his way and his jokes.
The day is foggy, reminding me of a place I sometimes call home, but it is also calling my attention to the fact I don't like leaving Nazareth. Something was comfortable there - maybe it was walking in the town where Jesus walked, maybe it was the convent, or maybe it was that somehow Nazareth is a more relaxed town.
Our ride is about an hour to Burqin, the site of a charming Greek Orthodox church, built on the site where Jesus healed the ten lepers. There was a cistern and a place where the sick were quarantined. It was a charming church, a place where few tourists go, but a place that reminds us of the many miracles Jesus performed in his public ministry. We hear the story of the lepers, and prayerfully explore the church. Manakish is the first of our treats today, a pizza like dough is on the bottom, olive oil is spread and za'atar is sprinkled. A little tea, too, is provided. Again, we are fed - by the story, by the place, and by the people.
We then return to the bus and continue on to our next stop, Nablus. Here, 1% of the population is Christian. St. Photini's is our next destination. As we approach, we sing a song about Jacob's ladder as we approach; and hear the story of Jacob. St. Photini is the name given to the Samaritan woman, by the Greeks. An orthodox priest greets us in the courtyard. We hear his complicated story from Iyad. This slight man, with a long beard is not only the priest, but the iconographer. The amount of icons in this church are astounding. This priest rebuilt the church after it was desecrated in 1979; its custodian having been murdered. It is truly an incredible place. The real treat, however, is below the first floor.
Descending to the well, I wonder, was this really both Jacob's well and the well where the Samaritan woman spoke to Jesus? I don't know, but the sense of the holy is there. We hear the story of the Samaritan woman. One of the pilgrims is called on to help draw water that we will drink. I am near the front and help both to lower the bucket into the well; it seems a long way down. We bring up fresh water and drink from the well. A little more time to pray and look at the church and then back to the bus. Our next stop is a bakery in the town.
Treats from Iyad are always interesting because we get to try things we wouldn't know to order. Today, we are stopping to sample Kanafeh, a pastry soaked in a sugary syrup. There was another, too, with shredded wheat wrapped around a cheese. It was quite sweet. We wondered, could we ever eat again?
Next, we drive to Taybeh; in biblical times it was known as Ephraim. It is a 100% Christian town, a rarity in the Middle East. One unfortunate part of the story we hear, is that Christians are a minority in Israel and the occupied territories, many have fled the area, in search of a better way of life. Arriving at St. George's, I'm reminded of the ruins I've visited in England, vast stone structures with large chunks missing roofs, windows, and doors. People bring trinkets or expensive items and leave them in the ruins as an offering. Occasionally, someone brings an animal to sacrifice. Evidence suggest that habit still continues. Some people talk of the "thin places" here, where you feel just a bit closer to God. One has to agree.
Oddly enough our next stop is a brewery! Taybeh's brewery (of the same name) is run by a family with links to Boston, and inspired by the American craft beer movement. They have been quite successful and have been inspired to start a winery and also a hotel. We sampled some beer and then moved on to a tour of the brewery. As we left a shepherd herded his flock. I find myself thinking about all the times the Bible has become real on this pilgrimage. Sometimes it happens when you expect, other times it is totally unexpected.
No one thought lunch could be eaten, but again we were served a wonderful meal - our mezze included many things which have now become familiar, hummus, olives, little salads and pita. Then, we were served a delicious meal of chicken and onions over rice cooked with sumac, the spice, not the poison. Fortunately, we were given a sweet orange to end the meal.
We returned to St. George's, which felt like coming home. Pilgrims settled back into their rooms and met for dinner. Compline followed. I have been fed many ways today - the call to prayer, the food, the people, the songs, the prayers.
P.S. I found out that three bakery workers were attacked by Israeli soldiers on Monday in Nablus. There were no signs of trouble the day we visited but my heart is heavy. The lack of peace in this holy place breaks my heart. Weep for Jerusalem. Pray for peace.
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