The Way of the Cross

The Muslim muezzin chanting from the minaret next door to the hotel was the first sound which signaled to me that I was not in the United States. The chanting is a kind of wake-up call each day, beginning at 5:00am. This morning it awoke me, as usual, but it has become, just in a few days, both familiar and inviting. 

Iyad, our guide, met us in the lobby at 5:45, gave us a few instructions about the Way of the Cross, and off we walked, in silence, taking turns carrying a wooden cross. We walked past the shops in East Jerusalem, our neighborhood, and into the Old City through Herod’s gate. Even at that hour the city was awake with merchants opening up their shops, gas burners tended by early-risers making coffee. 

The first station, “Jesus is Judged” is a head-on collision with God’s capacity to reverse the order of things. Whatever we hold closely--power, security, wealth, status--they’re replaced with a crown of thorns. Whatever gives us meaning in life, on the outside, is turned on its head. This is the place where it begins, this first station, as God’s son wears a crown of thorns.

We took turns not only carrying the cross, but also reading the scripture for each station, and leading in the prayers. Sometimes we sang “Were you there?” between each station. Our Way ended in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in the Empty Tomb, and then we made our way to a group of Polish pilgrims standing around as the Franciscan priest led Mass. Most of us slipped in behind them to receive the very essence of who Christ, poured out in the flesh of bread and the cup of salvation.

We leave now, at 9:00am, to Emmaus where we’ll celebrate our own Eucharist. Then to Jericho for a party at Iyad and Simone’s house. We’ll be back in Jerusalem this afternoon. Pray for us.